Ares m60 LMG

ARES M60 MRK43 Lmg

Remove the magasine and disconnect the battery.

Remove the front rail system by taking off the 2 screws.

On the back of the handle and trigger assembly there are a push through pin. On the front there is another one that are locked in place by a small Peace of metal. Use a couple of screwdrivers to remove the locking circle, it takes a lot of force, so be careful it don't break. Then push through the two pins.

Unscrew the magazine holding bracket. It only has 4 screws the one in the middle is holding the gearbox in the frame. Feel free to remove that one as well.

On the other side of the receiver frame theres one more screw holding the gearbox in place.

To remove the back stock, just remove the 2 screws fixing it to the receiver. Theres one on the top of the gun, and one on the button. When they are off the stock just slides off.

On some LMG models it's possible to slide the gearbox out of the back at this point. But mine was stuck in place so I had to remove the front to get it out … :-( ... I hope yours will slide out.. Otherwise just continue.

If you want to paint the gun or for other reasons want to continue the disassembly start by removing the top cover. The pin in most models is fixed in place by a retaining circle, others has a screw off part. When the lock part is off you can take all the parts off. Remember to have it open so there's no tension in the spring when you pull out the spring.

To get to the inner barrel and hop-up chamber you may know that you can push the pin and turn the handle on the other side, and loosen the machine screw. But if you want to disassemble the gun e.g. For painting you can remove the pin by loosening the small set screw that's in the lock ring opposite of the handle. But be careful! There's a spring on that keep it under tension, so hold it in place so it don't go flying.

When the barrel is off the bipod and carry sling point can be taken off.

Onn the side of the front the magazine feeding tube attachment point needs to be unscrewed, and on each side 2 screws should be removed. Also the long metal rod along the side of the gearbox needs to come off to remove the front attachment part. Now the two parts can both slide off.

At this point all major parts preventing the gearbox from coming out has been removed … But on the gun I had the gearbox was realy jammed in there. So it took a bit of wrestling to get it out.

To get the hop-up unit and inner barrel out of the other barrel there's 2 set screws holding it. There should be one on each side. But the brand new gun I had the pleasure of disassemble was missing one, so I think the factory may have forgotten one.

The front assembly on the end of the barrel can come off this way: First unscrew the flash hider. Then theres 4 push through pins. You may need a peace of metal rod the same size and a small hamer.

That’s kinda it … If you have followed thease steps you should have a gun in parts. Theres still some minor parts that can come off but why would you remove them?

The gun was easy to take apart if you have the correct tools, but there are a lot of push pins and retaining circle grippers that can be hard to remove and may crack or damage your gun trying to take off… So be careful that you don’t scratch your gun, and check that you are not too aggressive with the few plastic parts.

Opgrade wise theres allot you can doo, and most parts in the gearbox is standard Version 2 parts, so they are easy to get. Upgrade the piston to full metal row so it can handle allot if shots. And personaly I have gotten a metal cylinder head, and metal spring guide. But thease parts are gun specific so you have to search the web to get them. I found some Asian sides that had the parts with free shipping. The gears a okay, but if you have the money get some new high strength performance once …

I needed to correct AOE, and re shim the gun, but other than that it’s well made.

The folowing guides is relevant for you if you have an m60 (Especialy if it's an Mk43):
To disassemble the gearbox you can see this short guide.
M249 and M60 Gearbox Disassembly
The angle of engagement are often verry bad at thease gun's su you need to add som kind of sorbo padding.
Angle of Engagement (AOE Fixing)
Most of them are pretty precise, but because the barrel is fixed in place inside the gearbox, you can do barrel stabilization, just DON'T get it to tight because it needs to ba able to move just a bit.
Barrel stabilization guide
And like all other AEG's a Mosfet is almost a must doo..
DIY Mosfet creation guide
Some playing fields requide you to only shoot short controled bursts. So what aboud a "Burst Mode Mosfet" to ensure that you can only fire in bursts.
Make your own Burst Mode Mosfet

There are always more things that can be made to an AEG but this was my take on the M60 LMG.


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Airsoft Front Calculators CronoPhone Projects and tech Mods and Upgrades Disassembly FAQ & QNA Links	Ares m60 LMG ARES M60 MRK43 Lmg Remove the magasine and disconnect the battery. Remove the front rail system by taking off the 2 screws. On the back of the handle and trigger assembly there are a push through pin. On the front there is another one that are locked in place by a small Peace of metal. Use a couple of screwdrivers to remove the locking circle, it takes a lot of force, so be careful it don't break. Then push through the two pins. Unscrew the magazine holding bracket. It only has 4 screws the one in the middle is holding the gearbox in the frame. Feel free to remove that one as well. On the other side of the receiver frame theres one more screw holding the gearbox in place. To remove the back stock, just remove the 2 screws fixing it to the receiver. Theres one on the top of the gun, and one on the button. When they are off the stock just slides off. On some LMG models it's possible to slide the gearbox out of the back at this point. But mine was stuck in place so I had to remove the front to get it out … :-( ... I hope yours will slide out.. Otherwise just continue. If you want to paint the gun or for other reasons want to continue the disassembly start by removing the top cover. The pin in most models is fixed in place by a retaining circle, others has a screw off part. When the lock part is off you can take all the parts off. Remember to have it open so there's no tension in the spring when you pull out the spring. To get to the inner barrel and hop-up chamber you may know that you can push the pin and turn the handle on the other side, and loosen the machine screw. But if you want to disassemble the gun e.g. For painting you can remove the pin by loosening the small set screw that's in the lock ring opposite of the handle. But be careful! There's a spring on that keep it under tension, so hold it in place so it don't go flying. When the barrel is off the bipod and carry sling point can be taken off. Onn the side of the front the magazine feeding tube attachment point needs to be unscrewed, and on each side 2 screws should be removed. Also the long metal rod along the side of the gearbox needs to come off to remove the front attachment part. Now the two parts can both slide off. At this point all major parts preventing the gearbox from coming out has been removed … But on the gun I had the gearbox was realy jammed in there. So it took a bit of wrestling to get it out. To get the hop-up unit and inner barrel out of the other barrel there's 2 set screws holding it. There should be one on each side. But the brand new gun I had the pleasure of disassemble was missing one, so I think the factory may have forgotten one. The front assembly on the end of the barrel can come off this way: First unscrew the flash hider. Then theres 4 push through pins. You may need a peace of metal rod the same size and a small hamer. That’s kinda it … If you have followed thease steps you should have a gun in parts. Theres still some minor parts that can come off but why would you remove them? The gun was easy to take apart if you have the correct tools, but there are a lot of push pins and retaining circle grippers that can be hard to remove and may crack or damage your gun trying to take off… So be careful that you don’t scratch your gun, and check that you are not too aggressive with the few plastic parts. Opgrade wise theres allot you can doo, and most parts in the gearbox is standard Version 2 parts, so they are easy to get. Upgrade the piston to full metal row so it can handle allot if shots. And personaly I have gotten a metal cylinder head, and metal spring guide. But thease parts are gun specific so you have to search the web to get them. I found some Asian sides that had the parts with free shipping. The gears a okay, but if you have the money get some new high strength performance once … I needed to correct AOE, and re shim the gun, but other than that it’s well made. The folowing guides is relevant for you if you have an m60 (Especialy if it's an Mk43): To disassemble the gearbox you can see this short guide. M249 and M60 Gearbox Disassembly The angle of engagement are often verry bad at thease gun's su you need to add som kind of sorbo padding. Angle of Engagement (AOE Fixing) Most of them are pretty precise, but because the barrel is fixed in place inside the gearbox, you can do barrel stabilization, just DON'T get it to tight because it needs to ba able to move just a bit. Barrel stabilization guide And like all other AEG's a Mosfet is almost a must doo.. DIY Mosfet creation guide Some playing fields requide you to only shoot short controled bursts. So what aboud a "Burst Mode Mosfet" to ensure that you can only fire in bursts. Make your own Burst Mode Mosfet There are always more things that can be made to an AEG but this was my take on the M60 LMG.
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