Barrel stabilization

End point
The other fixing point where the barrel will touch the gun is the muzzle end and here the attachment point is often made of metal. And when the manufacture use metal they often give extra clearance so they are sure the workers can assemble the gun easily. So often the barrel at this point will need more layers of tape to be fixed in place.

Final Fix
The final modified barrel and hop up should look something like in the picture below. Where the upper part shows a 2Point stabilization fix from an AEG, and the lower part is a fix of a sniper rifle that uses foam rings to stabilize the inner barrel. In the sniper rifle I have chosen to only stabilize in 3 points (Front mid and end) but optimally you would fill the full length of the barrel to ensure maximum stability.

Other Guns
The images here are from a Jing gong (JG g608) g36c. That I was fixing for a friend. Other guns I know of that have “kind of the same” 2 point design include: Mp5 (most editions mp5k, A4 SD6 etc.), some AK47 models, SVD, and most pistols.

If you have a M4, M14, Armalite, etc. changes are you have a full length outer barrel where you slide in the inner barrel. If you doo wrap the hole inner barrel in a layer of Teflon tape to ensure full length stabilization. And again not so much you have to use tools to force it in.

And of cause reassemble and test. A good idea (if possible) is to clamp Down the gun in the end of a long room or hallway (where Wind won’t affect the test), and doo some accuracy test shots. Some “before shots” and some “after shots” to verify that you have minimized the spread of the gun. In my test of this particular gun (the g36c) the spread at 30meters was 5-10 cm. After the mod I got a 2-5 cm spread. All tests was done with a clamped gun and 20 shots per test, 10 tests, measuring the distance between the 2 holes with the biggest distance. But the effect of the mod very much depends on the gun and where this gun had huge improvements others have very little effect.

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